HomerJay Posted February 4, 2010 Author Posted February 4, 2010 Best there is. Only way to find out about whether it's better to leave on or put on timer is to do a controlled test. To do this properly, ideally the outside air conditions have to be the same for about 3 weeks (the same profile that is, not a constant temperature). You first read your meter and leave the heating doing what it currently is doing (e.g. on time control). After a week, read it again (same time of day, e.g. Sunday 7pm). Then you change over to the other method (constant heating say), leave the house to settle for a couple of days until e.g. Wednesday 7pm and read the meter again. Let the heating run like this for another week and do another meter reading. At this point you'll have your heating usage for 2 comparable 7 day periods and, providing the outside conditions have been the same, you'll have an answer as to what's cheaper for your house/boiler combination. Best thing though is to install a variable temperature system so the radiator temperature is compensated against the outside temp, so when it's cold out, the radiators are hotter - when it's warm, they run at a colder temp. That'll be ?750.00 plus VAT please bit of a pain, but ill give that a bash dankeschoen
Big_Girl_Oral_Explosion Posted February 4, 2010 Posted February 4, 2010 Best there is. Only way to find out about whether it's better to leave on or put on timer is to do a controlled test. To do this properly, ideally the outside air conditions have to be the same for about 3 weeks (the same profile that is, not a constant temperature). You first read your meter and leave the heating doing what it currently is doing (e.g. on time control). After a week, read it again (same time of day, e.g. Sunday 7pm). Then you change over to the other method (constant heating say), leave the house to settle for a couple of days until e.g. Wednesday 7pm and read the meter again. Let the heating run like this for another week and do another meter reading. At this point you'll have your heating usage for 2 comparable 7 day periods and, providing the outside conditions have been the same, you'll have an answer as to what's cheaper for your house/boiler combination. Best thing though is to install a variable temperature system so the radiator temperature is compensated against the outside temp, so when it's cold out, the radiators are hotter - when it's warm, they run at a colder temp. That'll be ?750.00 plus VAT please Good advice, cept ensure you use the hob or oven gas to the same degree over the two trials. A mate of mine had two condensing combis fitted in a large victorian school house conversion he recently did up. They told him to leave his on all the time too. Im not entirely convinced, suppose it depends on the the materials the building is made of and the level of insulation. Might try this meself but I reckon its better done during months when we dont get extreme cold. March would be a good month.
Happy Wanderer Posted February 4, 2010 Posted February 4, 2010 That'll be ?750.00 plus VAT please Thanks Gran brilliant advice, see you do have your uses I'm sure there are 750 of us that will pay you ?1 a piece. The next game you're at bring your hat and we'll fill it for you.
HomerJay Posted February 10, 2010 Author Posted February 10, 2010 (edited) from http://www.moneysavi...gas-electricity British Gas's relatively paltry GAS-ONLY 7% price cut on its standard tariff left it still ?250 more a year than the cheapest deals (including British Gas's own cheaper deals). Will others' prices drop? Energy companies are like sheep, when one bleats others follow, so more small price cuts are likely. Should I wait to compare 'n' switch? You may think, "why not wait until they've all cut prices?". Yet for most people switching savings now are enormous, as a hidden price war's been raging for 6 months as companies fight to provide the cheapest online tariffs (typically ?900/year compared to standard ?1,200 tariffs), so waiting means paying more for longer. Though for safety avoid tariffs with substantial lock-in fees in case it's worth switching again later. Compare, switch & get cashback: (cashback specifically via these special links) Top Pick Comparison: Energyhelpline* pays ?15 cashback per switch. Dual Fuel: Either Moneysupermarket* gives ?30 cashback, Uswitch* free case of wine or SimplySwitch* ?35 in Amazon vouchers. so i thought "time to switch"... but ive used uswitch before, total shite, took ages and bills actually increased. this time im going with energyhelpline or moneysupermarket. both think that a high user should use 28,500kwh of gas per annum. im at 30,000! now im worried, gas leak? neighbours tapping into my supply? Edited February 10, 2010 by HomerJay
HomerJay Posted February 10, 2010 Author Posted February 10, 2010 (edited) done a compare on moneysupermarket and it reckons it can reduce my bills ?1,784 (?717.33 for electric and ?1067.83 for gas) to ?1,372.37 but the rates are higher than what i pay now, how the fuck does that work??? British Gas (WebSaver 6 Tariff) Gas Standard Charge - Gas Standing charge ?0.00 Unit Rates 1 Unit Rates 2 Unit Rates 3 2.6471p (up to 2680Kwh) 6.5342p Electric Standard Charge - Electricity Standing charge ?0.00 Unit Rates 1 Unit Rates 2 Unit Rates 3 8.1669p (Up to 500Kwh) 21.7896p compared with Gas EON (Price Protection Gas April 2010) 4.109p per kwh Normal units up to 4572 kWhs per year 2.771p per kwh Normal units Electric Atlantic Gas & Electric (Domestic Standard No Standing Charge On-line) 14.14 per kwh Normal units 11.47 per kwh Discounted units Edited February 10, 2010 by HomerJay
HomerJay Posted February 10, 2010 Author Posted February 10, 2010 or maybe it does work out, when you look at the unit prices....
HomerJay Posted February 10, 2010 Author Posted February 10, 2010 just had the discussion with a mate who lives in a newish townhouse (terrace) and he only uses 10,000kwh gas and 3,000kwh electric per annum. i know everyones different, but thats VERY different...
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