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Wanderers Ways. Neil Thompson 1961-2021

This Weather.....


gonzo

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I need to go on some sort of class for these sort of things. My washing machine wasn't draining last week, looked at the filter, checked the sump - thought I was billy big bollocks. Still didn't drain. Got a handyman round, wastepipe was blocked. Took 30 seconds.

Turns out a deep knowledge of winklepickers and cravats is useless in the face of household fixes.

Also, real men of proper graft I have a drill issue. Trying to fix curtain poles up in the bedroom. Got a concrete drill bit but it appears there's some sort of impregnable stone above the window and its only goes so far in. My actual drill is a bit shit, do I need to spend or is there another way?

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This is what I use a s a DIY drill

https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dhr202z-2-9kg-18v-li-ion-lxt-cordless-sds-rotary-hammer-drill-bare/48570

Borrowed a DeWalt before Christmas and I liked it. Make sure you get an 18V cordless SDS drill, then standardise Makita or De Walt and build your collection using the same batteries. Impact Driver would be your next investment and maybe a palm sander for decorating (they're brilliant).

This is becoming a Tool Time thread...

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6 hours ago, green genie said:

Possibly diverter valve passing between heating and hot water circuits. Flick it between water only / heating only and combined a couple of times. If it's just crud stuck in it may get lucky and dislodge. 

After you've rubbed it with bloon of course 

How do I do that?

4 hours ago, Spider said:

Is it a combi?

Yes

3 hours ago, MickyD said:

Slow your flow rate a touch. (Turn the tap down slightly) This should mean the water takes longer to go through the heat exchanger coil. 
 

That should sort things until you get a plumber in.

Slow my flow rate? You mean just not turn the hot tap on fully and just have it trickling out?

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2 hours ago, Dimron said:

This is what I use a s a DIY drill

https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dhr202z-2-9kg-18v-li-ion-lxt-cordless-sds-rotary-hammer-drill-bare/48570

Borrowed a DeWalt before Christmas and I liked it. Make sure you get an 18V cordless SDS drill, then standardise Makita or De Walt and build your collection using the same batteries. Impact Driver would be your next investment and maybe a palm sander for decorating (they're brilliant).

This is becoming a Tool Time thread...

I have a palm sander - they are amazing, managed to fill a hole in the wall with some sort of trade French filer and a sander, looked better than new.

I was thinking about Impact Driver, do they work better on difficult hard walls?

Its odd as just below the window its obviously just the brickwork and it drills fine but have to use locking screws as they just fall out.

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5 minutes ago, Traf said:

How do I do that?

Yes

Slow my flow rate? You mean just not turn the hot tap on fully and just have it trickling out?

I hate combi’s for a number of reasons, but can tell you this is the most common complaint.

Its almost certainly your diverter jamming and not allowing the hot water to flow to your rads.

I don’t think it’s a very expensive job, how old is the unit?

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38 minutes ago, Traf said:

How do I do that?

Yes

Slow my flow rate? You mean just not turn the hot tap on fully and just have it trickling out?

Close your stop cock tap a bit...

Stupid suggestion but I assume your internal boiler pressure is at the right level?

Edited by Youri McAnespie
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3 hours ago, Not in Crawley said:

I need to go on some sort of class for these sort of things. My washing machine wasn't draining last week, looked at the filter, checked the sump - thought I was billy big bollocks. Still didn't drain. Got a handyman round, wastepipe was blocked. Took 30 seconds.

Turns out a deep knowledge of winklepickers and cravats is useless in the face of household fixes.

Also, real men of proper graft I have a drill issue. Trying to fix curtain poles up in the bedroom. Got a concrete drill bit but it appears there's some sort of impregnable stone above the window and its only goes so far in. My actual drill is a bit shit, do I need to spend or is there another way?

Could you be hitting a steel lintel above the window?

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16 minutes ago, Traf said:

The main stop cock to the house?

Pressure gauge on boiler is in the green bit

Aye, turn down the main stopcock - do it whilst an upstairs cold tap is running to check it's not being turned too low* - it's a quick fix to slow flow but...

Well it's a bit of a temp/cowboy fix tbh.

*this will need an assistant obvs.

(Stupid) Question, have you ever turned two taps/valves on the boiler simultaneously whilst monitoring the pressure gauge?

Edited by Youri McAnespie
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59 minutes ago, Not in Crawley said:

I have a palm sander - they are amazing, managed to fill a hole in the wall with some sort of trade French filer and a sander, looked better than new.

I was thinking about Impact Driver, do they work better on difficult hard walls?

Its odd as just below the window its obviously just the brickwork and it drills fine but have to use locking screws as they just fall out.

Pink Grip but it's White!

Either that or 'blast' the last bit with a couple of matches that have the head covered with tinfoil.

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Under windows in old houses, the interior course is usually just cobbled together, in new builds perhaps it's breezeblock...

It's probably like somebody else said - you're probably hitting the exterior steel lintel.

Can you not just use different shorter screws and rawlplugs?

You can trim them too tha' knows (rawlplugs) - wrap a slice of insulating tape where you snip them (to keep them together).

Edited by Youri McAnespie
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1 hour ago, Not in Crawley said:

I have a palm sander - they are amazing, managed to fill a hole in the wall with some sort of trade French filer and a sander, looked better than new.

I was thinking about Impact Driver, do they work better on difficult hard walls?

Its odd as just below the window its obviously just the brickwork and it drills fine but have to use locking screws as they just fall out.

Probably on a catnic lintel, that's why I hate blinds and curtains.

If you're fitting into the reveal it's a fuck off drill and cavity fixings and as said, plenty of no nails adhesive.

If you're onto the face of the wall, fix a 2x1 curtain batten which will be longer that the opening.

I like my impact driver but you need good screws like Spax or it'll strip the heads, nowt gets in it's way

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42 minutes ago, bolton_blondie said:

Every patient I have visited today took treble the amount of time as usual to open their bastarding doors. Gonna have to start putting hand warmers down my bra! 

Will there be room next to Rudy’s hands?

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